The M65 field jacket

The cross over appeal of military clothing into civilian life is well recognised. Furthermore, the influence of military uniforms on fashion is a recurring theme and has been widely written about. Whilst countless articles might discuss and critique the designers who are inspired by these clothes in their own ranges, what is the story behind the original designs? Where do they come from? Who made them? And when? This is my attempt to shed more light on one garment that is surely worthy of further investigation; the M-65 jacket.

The M-65 is a US Army field jacket. It is instantly recognisable for its four front pockets and its concealed hood within its collar. The design has influenced countless companies to produce their own versions, but where does the original come from? The story begins in 1935, when the US Army began to investigate ways of modernising its uniform. They decided they needed a jacket that would meet the demands placed upon a soldier in the field. Unable to source anything on the commercial market they began to develop their own. This saw the development of the cotton M-41 jacket, designed by Major General J.K. Parsons, Commanding General of the Third Corps Area. The Army's Quartermaster General's office had contacted Esquire Magazine/Apparel Arts in New York to get their input prior to Parsons's final design. They were critical of the Army's design and made several suggestions, which Parsons purportedly did not care for. This was followed by the M-43, which had a four pocket design. Successive designs including the M-445, 50 and 51 maintained the four pocket arrangement whilst making subtle changes to improve upon their function. A design common to all these jackets are their notched lapels. Examples can be found at this site. It was in 1965 that the field jacket took the subtle yet major leap of eschewing the lapels and incorporating the concealed hood within the collar. Furthermore, the jacket now was made from a mix of cotton and nylon, which greatly improved its strength. The US Military is pragmatic in the naming of its uniform and the jacket was appropriately called the M-65. ¡°M¡± is a prefix used by the US Army for designating all equipment it uses. The ¡°65¡± refers to the year the jacket was first made.

Alpha Industries was called upon to assist in the manufacture of flight Jackets in 1959 with the burgeoning jet age. They also began to make field jackets for the Army, and with that the M-65, which they still make today. The jacket above is one made by Alpha Industries.

Whilst fashion designers may twist and tweak with the cut and shape of the M-65 and the fabrics and colours it comes in, the US Army is less forgiving in how the jacket must be made. The US Army has an enormous array of standards set out for almost everything imaginable. These standards are termed Mil-Spec. Mil-Spec MIL-C-43455J is for a cold weather field coat; the M-65 Field Jacket. This standard is a seventy two page document that leaves no room for doubt as to how the jacket should be made. So when a company claims its garments are Mil Spec, then they are claiming they meet the standards as defined in these US Defence Standards.

Under the current standard there are three colourways of the M-65 that are Mil Spec. They are Olive Green, Woodland Camouflage and a three colour Desert Camouflage. A fourth colourway of a six colour Desert Camouflage has been decommissioned. This is certainly in contrast to the inventive colourways that have been released by fashion labels (viz. A Bathing Ape).

The Mil Spec for the jacket also explains why the fit of the jackets cans seem a bit strange. They tend to run large when compared to most fashion labels; but there is no room for compromise if they are to conform to the standard set by the Mil Spec.

Whilst the functional elements of the M-65 are obvious (light weight, ample storage, strong fabric, the ability to add a liner, minimal snag points), what gives the jacket its aesthetic appeal that has seen it so readily adopted in civilian life? I feel it is a combination of the symmetrical balance offered by the four pockets and the well defined shape of the collar that give the jacket its appeal. In contrast to earlier field jackets that had lapels, the M-65¡¯s lack of one makes it tougher looking, and paradoxically for a military uniform less conformist. It also can be worn very casually or where slim tailored it allows it to be smarter, drawing upon the inherent sharpness of military uniforms. Interestingly, part of the design brief for a field jacket is that is must have minimal tailoring, as this allows for quicker manufacturing. It is the lack of fuss, yet the crucial detailing (cargo pockets, epaulets, concealed zip, velcro cuffs), that bring to mind the clich¨¦ ¡°less is more¡±.

The very nature of fashion mean that what is in favour comes and goes, but there are certain staples that hold their own against the passing trends. How long the M65 Field Jacket remains a fashionable jacket, time will tell, but after forty years it seems to be holding its own.